Qasr Azraq: the basalt fortress where T.E. Lawrence wintered in 1917
Black basalt walls, a one-tonne stone door that pivots on palm-oil hinges, and the only oasis in 12,000 km² of desert. Lawrence used it as …
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Qusayr Amra: the Umayyad bath house with the only fresco zodiac dome surviving from early Islam
Built between 723 and 743 CE in the Eastern Desert by an Umayyad caliph, Qusayr Amra has the most complete surviving early-Islamic frescoes…
Stargazing at Rummana Campground: the high-altitude alternative to Wadi Rum
1,250 metres above sea level on a Dana ridge, the RSCN-managed Rummana campground gives you Bortle-2 dark skies, cooler nights than Wadi Ru…
Mukawir (Machaerus): the Hasmonean fortress where Salome danced and John the Baptist died
On a 1,100-metre hilltop above the Dead Sea, Hasmonean king Alexander Jannaeus built a desert fortress in 90 BCE. Herod rebuilt it. Accordi…
Dana Biosphere village: a 500-year-old stone village inside the largest nature reserve in Jordan
On the rim of the Dana valley sits a stone village that has been continuously occupied for 500 years. Below it: 308 km² of nature reserve d…
Bethany Beyond the Jordan: UNESCO baptism site, Byzantine churches, and a river now a stream
Inscribed by UNESCO in 2015 as the eastern-bank baptism site of Jesus, Al-Maghtas now contains five excavated churches, hermit caves, and a…
Aqaba Old Town: the souk, the Saraya cinema, and where to drink Bedouin coffee
Beyond the Aqaba beach hotels is a small but lived-in old town — a daily souk, the Mamluk-era fort on the corniche, and a handful of cafés …
Japanese Garden, Aqaba: the easiest dive site in the Red Sea, with the highest density of fish
Open Water-friendly, accessible from shore at Tala Bay, 5–18 m depth, and the Aqaba reef wall starts a few metres from the entry point. The…
The Aqaba Marine Park: a walk along the Red Sea reef south of the city
Established 1997 along the southern Aqaba coast, the Marine Reserve protects 25 km of fringing reef and 30+ dive sites. Most visitors only …
Camel trekking overnight in Wadi Rum: what to expect and how the Bedouin route the trip
An overnight camel trek in Wadi Rum is the slow alternative to the 4×4 day. Five hours of walking pace, sunset on a high dune, dinner at a …