Mukawir (Machaerus): the Hasmonean fortress where Salome danced and John the Baptist died
On a 1,100-metre hilltop above the Dead Sea, Hasmonean king Alexander Jannaeus built a desert fortress in 90 BCE. Herod rebuilt it. Accordi…
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Dana Biosphere village: a 500-year-old stone village inside the largest nature reserve in Jordan
On the rim of the Dana valley sits a stone village that has been continuously occupied for 500 years. Below it: 308 km² of nature reserve d…
Bethany Beyond the Jordan: UNESCO baptism site, Byzantine churches, and a river now a stream
Inscribed by UNESCO in 2015 as the eastern-bank baptism site of Jesus, Al-Maghtas now contains five excavated churches, hermit caves, and a…
Floating in the Dead Sea: the lowest point on Earth, the saltiest water, and the mud that does work
Four hundred and forty metres below sea level, 34% salinity, and the mud worth the dirt under your fingernails. How to do the Jordan-side r…
Shore snorkel at Tala Bay: the easiest way to see the Aqaba reef without a boat
If you don't dive, the same reef wall the divers descend is in 1–3 metres of water at the shoreline. Snorkel gear hire on the beach, no boa…
Aqaba Old Town: the souk, the Saraya cinema, and where to drink Bedouin coffee
Beyond the Aqaba beach hotels is a small but lived-in old town — a daily souk, the Mamluk-era fort on the corniche, and a handful of cafés …
The Cedar Pride wreck, Aqaba: a Lebanese cargo ship scuttled at 25 metres
A 74-metre cargo ship that caught fire in 1982, was towed to Aqaba, and scuttled in 1985 as an artificial reef. Now lies on its port side a…
Japanese Garden, Aqaba: the easiest dive site in the Red Sea, with the highest density of fish
Open Water-friendly, accessible from shore at Tala Bay, 5–18 m depth, and the Aqaba reef wall starts a few metres from the entry point. The…
The Aqaba Marine Park: a walk along the Red Sea reef south of the city
Established 1997 along the southern Aqaba coast, the Marine Reserve protects 25 km of fringing reef and 30+ dive sites. Most visitors only …
Camel trekking overnight in Wadi Rum: what to expect and how the Bedouin route the trip
An overnight camel trek in Wadi Rum is the slow alternative to the 4×4 day. Five hours of walking pace, sunset on a high dune, dinner at a …