Bedouin storytelling night in Wadi Rum: how the evening actually works
After dinner at most Wadi Rum camps, the host gathers everyone around the fire and the storytelling begins. Practical guide to what's offer…
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Shaumari Wildlife Reserve: where Jordan reintroduced the Arabian oryx in 1978
A 22-square-kilometre fenced reserve near Azraq, founded 1975 by the RSCN, where the Arabian oryx, Persian onager, and Somali ostrich were …
Qasr Azraq: the basalt fortress where T.E. Lawrence wintered in 1917
Black basalt walls, a one-tonne stone door that pivots on palm-oil hinges, and the only oasis in 12,000 km² of desert. Lawrence used it as …
Qasr Kharana: a perfectly square Umayyad caravan-meeting-house in the eastern desert
Built before November 24, 710 CE — the inscription is dated to the day. A 35-metre square fortress with 60 rooms around a central courtyard…
Qusayr Amra: the Umayyad bath house with the only fresco zodiac dome surviving from early Islam
Built between 723 and 743 CE in the Eastern Desert by an Umayyad caliph, Qusayr Amra has the most complete surviving early-Islamic frescoes…
Dana Biosphere village: a 500-year-old stone village inside the largest nature reserve in Jordan
On the rim of the Dana valley sits a stone village that has been continuously occupied for 500 years. Below it: 308 km² of nature reserve d…
Bethany Beyond the Jordan: UNESCO baptism site, Byzantine churches, and a river now a stream
Inscribed by UNESCO in 2015 as the eastern-bank baptism site of Jesus, Al-Maghtas now contains five excavated churches, hermit caves, and a…
Shore snorkel at Tala Bay: the easiest way to see the Aqaba reef without a boat
If you don't dive, the same reef wall the divers descend is in 1–3 metres of water at the shoreline. Snorkel gear hire on the beach, no boa…
Aqaba Old Town: the souk, the Saraya cinema, and where to drink Bedouin coffee
Beyond the Aqaba beach hotels is a small but lived-in old town — a daily souk, the Mamluk-era fort on the corniche, and a handful of cafés …
The Cedar Pride wreck, Aqaba: a Lebanese cargo ship scuttled at 25 metres
A 74-metre cargo ship that caught fire in 1982, was towed to Aqaba, and scuttled in 1985 as an artificial reef. Now lies on its port side a…
